Thursday 14th August 2014 From Kalkan Bay to Gocek Bay

We passed Coldwater Bay where, on 2nd August, we were amazed by the amount of gulets coming in and out with their holidaymakers. It was as if they were timetabled in twenty minute slots. They have a hooter which is blown to announce departure; at that point all the people who have jumped into the water must get themselves back on board. We anchored and took a line ashore, then another line. It was difficult – the ice-cream man, on his wooden dinghy came to help out by looking at the rudder and telling me which way to turn the steering. We felt compelled to buy an ice-cream to pay him back; he charged 10 TL for a magnum- £3! I did ask for a Turkish ice-cream which I knew cost 1.5 TL in the shops but he didn’t have any.

   Bob and I sat down to talk over what went wrong and this is when I discovered there is an indicator on the instrument panel which tells you which way the rudder is and by how much. They didn’t point this out on my Day Skipper course!

   We sailed into Gocek Bay, anchoring to swing free near the super boat jetty. They have big screen TVs on these boats and probably all sorts of other modern conveniences we don’t have on Peperuka.

   I told Bob that since it was Indian Independence Day the next day, tonight was the night Nehru made his speech – ‘At the stroke of the midnight hour India will awake to its destiny’, I would treat him to a meal at the Unlu Hotel.

Wednesday 13th August 2014 From Bayinder Limani to Kalkan Bay.

Bayinder Bay is now called ‘Swimming with Two Turtles Bay.’ On to Yesilkoy which I call the bay of ‘The Shining’ because of the hotel on the hill. It seems so isolated perched on its steep slope, it reminds me of the film. This is the bay facing the town of Kalkan where we tied up at the quay this trip and last. A pleasure boat came in to moor up alongside which didn’t please Bob at all. The family who’d had the day out were English and said they’d had a super time when I asked them in the middle of pressing on our fenders with my feet. Between the harbour master and the pleasure boat helmsman, they managed to squeeze in. However, this time, on our return voyage, we swung free on our anchor, and were early enough to be able to watch others come in. Lots of gulets and pleasure boats. Bob remarked on the one next to us where a man was cooking food on a barbecue perched on the gangway of the boat. On our other side was a lone sailor who dropped his anchor, gave me a wave and disappeared below. We planned to leave early next morning because the voyage past the seven capes was forecast for high winds, on the nose, all the way. It turned out better than that, we managed to tack across, heading for Gocek in a fair wind.

Tuesday 12th August 2014 From Ucagiz to Bayinder Limani, Kas, Turkey

Fair winds, again, took us to Bayinder Limani across the bay from busy Kas town. We missed out Polemus Bay which we visited on 6/7th August. From the restaurant there is a path leading to Aperpai which we walked in the morning. Three years ago we climbed to the top of the ruins but this time we knew the sarcophagi were empty as most of them were looted years ago. The tops look so heavy, how did the people manage to raise them?

We found the path around the The Purple House; it was the wrong way to go, the right way is through the grounds – we just couldn’t open the gate. A group of young Turkish men, who had set up camp nearby, were frolicking in the water. There laughter echoed around the bay, they were lovely to watch. It is a very beautiful setting; the shallow water prohibits many deep draught boats from anchoring which helps to keep the bay peaceful.

On the walk back we looked out for the tortoise we’d met three years ago, but there was no sign of him; a few skinny goats stared at us as we passed.  On the return, we took the gate that led into the Purple House, which is named for the dye that originated from the molluscs found in the bay. The purple colour which was much prized in Roman times making Aperlai an important place.

Monday 11th August 2014 – From Cineviz to Ucagiz (here previously Thursday 7th August)

Fair winds take us along the Kekova Roads, under the castle and into the bay of the village of Ucagiz. There are so many pleasure boats bringing people by coach from hotels in larger resorts. They don’t stay for evening meals so the restaurants that they pass gain no benefit from them. We have by-passed Gokkaya Bay which three nights ago was busy with a Sunsail flotilla and many gulets sending customers off screaming on blow up seats behind motor-boats with rumbling engines.

   However, there was one sound that brought a smile to Bob’s face. A gulet playing ‘Hotel California’ by the Eagles. The partying went on most of the night.

   Back at Ucagiz we have anchored in the bay (it’s not clean enough to swim). We lowered the dinghy so that I could go for a shower whilst Bob accessed the internet at Hassan’s restaurant. We shopped in the little supermarket, but it was at the wrong time as the gulets were leaving for the day and people were buying last minute essentials. Much pushing and shouting. I was surprised when the assistant asked for 85 turkish lira as we’d bought quite a lot of groceries.

Evening Sunday 10th August – Cineviz Bay (previously here – evening Saturday 9th August) – Bob’s favourite

What a diference a day makes! We completed our tour of the ruins at Phaseli, leaving the bay to its holidaymakers and returning to Cineviz before evening. It is not dark until about 8.45. From the seventeen boats moored here yesterday there are only a couple left that don’t look like permanent residents. It is so quiet and peaceful we understand why Rod Heikell’s guide book describes this as a ‘deserted bay’; the views on all sides are magnificent and magical. Bob has decided this is his favourite bay!